Juju Thoughts & Organics

I often welcome spring with a sinking feeling in my stomach…sure the blooms and blossoms and leaves and rainy days are cheery, but what about my not-ready-to-bare-n-share pasty skin?  Porcelain complexions are alluring and exotic…think Geisha’s and Ms. Kidman, but really, what about the rest of us?  For a little bronzing action, self tanners are the only way to go.  Since solar worship is verboten, let’s quickly assess what IS safe out there for us.

There are dozens of self tanners to choose from - all of them stating that the use of their product is safe because it allows one to tan without skin damage from dangerous UV rays.  Hmmmm.  On further glean, what I’ve noticed, is once again, bottles of lotions packed and preserved with toxic parabens, and pertroleum by-products.  In fact, according to the Skin Deep database, most of these self tanners contain ingredients that contain toxins, irritants and carcinogens.

Voila! My choice for bronzing sans soleil or toxic goo is Lavera’s Self-Tanning or Auto-Bronzant for those of you who ‘plan to not-tan at Cannes!’

Perfect 100% plant derived active ingredients - recommended for the most sensitive of skins.  Organic plant essences and pure organic aloe vera gel makes this tanner a multi-tasker moisturizer.  For the best tanned skin out there, indulge in an organic sugar scrub body treatment first - you’ll be stellar this summer.

Ok, liabilities up front: I am not a chemist. Chemistry class remains a vague, distant and confused high-school memory and something I avoided at all costs in college. However, I do know, as we all do, that plastics, polymers, copolymers, epoxy, polystyrene, to name a few… and most important to your hair style - polyvinylpyrrolidone or PVPs are usually synthetically formulated with non-renewable and hazardous petroleum-derived chemicals. Inhaled particles can cause serious problems in our lungs. Plastics, in all their glorious forms - goopy, sticky, stretchy, durable, and bouncy, are found in every conceivable product and/or its packaging - it’s hard to escape them. We all know that recycling these plastics and cutting back on their use is imperative.

Oh, a day without plastic….what would that look like?

Let’s start that day with you - getting yourself ready. PVPs are used in hairsprays, styling gels, nail polishes, mascaras - all the “must-haves” for many of us. And, what about those plastics in your hairspray….how are they going to be recycled? In what recycling bin does one dispose of PVP particles? No need to fret. Read your labels, of course! Rule of thumb: if your scalp or skin feels itchy and flaky, chances are there’s probably some suspicious ingredients in your body products.

Some good suggestions and great products follow: Zoya Nail Polishes! Toulene, phthalate, formaldehyde and acetone free….great long-lasting colors…love them! Miessence’s styling gel…

…conditions and nourishes the hair while providing terrific hold without flakes or build-up. And my personal can’t-live-without, Morrocco Method’s Blood of the Dragon Gel -full of restorative and rare conditioning herbs - provides hold and encourages healthy hair growth -it’s full of hair restorative goodies from the sea including kelp, nori, kombu and fucus! See previous post on hair loss!

Remember the inter-connectiveness of everything - let your grooming rituals be plastic-free!

I put this “no joke” in quotes because this is what my doctor said to me….last year…at my first mammogram. There I was, post mammogram, freshly 40, wearing wrongly-tied, somewhat revealing hospital robe, metal-tipped mammogram “pasties” taped to my nipples, paging through waiting room magazines and waiting for the doctor to inform me of my results. It was Valentine’s Day too, reminding me that the “What’d you do for Valentines?” response would be a little more interesting this year. Anyway, out walks the doctor, x-ray in hand…wait…it’s…..not just a doctor, but one of our clients! I’m shocked, happy, and grateful all at once, never mind a little embarrassed…but you’ve seen one pair, you’ve seen them all. He tells me that everything’s fine. To which I add, “It’s all those organic products and healthy eating!” His response? “Yep, those parabens… it’s no joke.”

Parabens (methyl, propyl, butyl, etc. ), synthetic, chemical preservatives, are no laughing matter. Parabens in cosmetics, shampoos, face creams, body lotions and soaps are inexpensive, but toxic way to preserve the shelf life of a product. Be aware and read your label! Some other offenders include: solbrol, nipabenzyl, hexachlorophene, formaldehyde, phenol, phenolic compound, phenonip and phenoxyetol. There is a poisoness maze to navigate out there - but you can do it! I highly suggest getting a copy of Aubrey Hampton’s indispensable guide to natural and synthetic ingredients, “What’s in Your Cosmetics?”

So, this years’ mammogram has come and past, thankfully as uneventful as last years’. I’ve seen the doctor, his wife and babies, at juju many times in between these yearly mammograms…using, experiencing and buying quality organic products. No joke!

Like others, I came across calendula late in life. In fact, my first born, Lucie, with her never-ending diaper rash on the cutest behind in the world, inadvertently turned me on to its healing powers. It is “one of the top five healers and skin tonics aiding everything from acne and rosacea to eczema and psoriasis. healing, soothing herb which repairs dry, damaged skin, prevents premature aging, aids in the treatment of bruises, spider veins, boils, sores, burns, wrinkles, swelling, and stretch marks to name a few. also imparts shades of gold and yellow naturally.” As I lathered her behind, with Weleda’s Calendula Baby Cream , I began to notice how great my cracked and aging hands started to look. As Lucie was a winter baby, my mitts were cracked and sore!

Calendula, etymologically speaking (Latin), “by the month” referring to the flowers’ long lasting blooms. Calendula, related to the pot marigold, is an herbaceous plant with yellow-rayed flowers. Look to calendula to help heal your skin! You won’t have to look far. Of course, the calendula should be sourced from an organic, biodynamic and holistic source. Try Suki’s Complexion Brightening Creme which lightens, brightens and really heals all types of stressed, discolored or sun-damaged skin. And for healthy, gorgeous hair, I recommend Sevi Organics Sea Berry Shampoo and Condition, rich in calendula and babussu, olive and lavender oils. Best of all, the smell of this healing flower is beautiful, your skin, hair and nose will thank you!

I love to finish a great haircut!  For instance, giving a great look to the haircut…like adding texture to the perfect blowdry.  I’m noticing that we get intimidated and overwhelmed when styling our hair at home.  And that’s where products (organic only!) come into play.  For coarse or color-treated hair, we need to nourish our hair before we blowdry.  The entire Hamadi line and Miessence’s B-5 Hair Repair Leave-In Spray, are perfect for this.   When I’m blowdrying, I determine where to put the volume in and take the volume out, depending on a client’s face shape.  Now we got it, but something is missing - a finishing product to complete the desired look is ESSENTIAL.  For thick curly hair, I love Innersense’s Inner Reflection Finishing Polish (cruelty free of course!) to give shine and a light hold.  For textured, fine hair, Hamadi’s short hair pomade, Simply Organic’s Pomade or MGA’s scalp rescue vegan pomade.  Remember - Great Hair starts with a Great Hair Wash!  Simply Organic makes one for you - fine, dry, whatever!

As a sure and frightening recession looms in our immediate future (present!), and we tighten our Made in China belts and forego the $4 latte, a nagging thought is getting more nag-time. Are organics a necessity? A luxury? Hmmm. Lots of Nag-Time, because I just opened an all organic day spa - great idea…but now? Arggghhhh! Why does it always have to go back to my mother? I’m digressing, let me explain.

This is how we educate our clients at the salon…it goes something like this, “…this (certified organic shea butter) pomade should last you until your kids are in college!” or “think about what went into this product when you use it….no huge ads in Vogue, no GMOs, no chemical preservatives, no SLS, recycled packaging, soy ink, small batches, bio-dynamic harvesting! Amazingly pure, unadulterated organic herbs and essential oils” That’s what we tell them, because it’s the truth. And yes, organic shampoo (face wash, mascara, deoderant, styling gel, plastic-free hairspray) is worth the extra dollars and is a NECESSITY - provided you use it like my Mom would (back to her!)

Mom grew up during the Depression in Northern Minnesota - one room log cabin, 8 brothers and sisters, skied to school, her dad hunted for supper, the whole nine yards. Yep, she’s a Saver! The original Recycler! food scraps in mulch pile, tin foil washed and stored, never buys paper towels or paper napkins, leftovers kept in old Land o’Lakes butter tubs from god knows when - maddening. Dish soap, shampoo, perfume, cleaning products, salad dressing, lotions, cooking oil, chalk, pencils, everything used sparingly…..sparing….as if it was a luxury…..liquid gold….no matter that it cost $1.99, she used everything (and believe me, she hasn’t changed) economically, sparingly, cautiously and well, respectfully. She would never dream of dumping huge amounts of Tide into the laundry, which reminds me that we were forbidden to put anything in the hamper until it was filthy - because that would be a waste of water, detergent, blah blah nag nagnagnag! And she’s right.

My point: I guess I need more therapy. And, don’t avoid organic foods, beauty products, cleaning products, etc. in this woeful economy. Buy them with confidence and use them respectfully.

or, am I a broken record, behind the chair, client after client, espousing the virtues (and believe me there’s many) of Organic Apple Cider Vinegar and what it can do for your hair. Really! So, as you may or may not know, our organic salon in Philadelphia, juju, is a busy busy place - lots of heads of hair and lots of problems with said hair. My favorite comeback to “it’s itchy,” “I’ve noticed a scaly patch,” “why does this color look pink in certain lighting,” and even, “my hair is ’smelly’” is: rinse once a week with an organic apple cider vinegar.

It clarifies, it balances Ph, it stops color fading, it removes whatever mineral/chemical sludge is in your water supply (yuck), it soothes, softens and tones every tired tress, really! Curls are bouncier, highlights re-freshened and on and on.

Our organic favorites at juju are Miessence Clarifying Hair Rinse and John Masters Herbal Cider Hair Rinse. These are the real thing, with organic burdock, lemon and nettle thrown in for extra conditioning. But you can make your own!

Here’s How: Add 1 to 2 tbls. of certified organic apple cider vinegar to a cup of warm water. In the shower, shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly. Apply your OACV mixture to wet hair and work through…it will feel straw-like and squeek a little, but rest assured, you know it’s working. After a minute or three, rinse and apply your organic conditioner….rinse and remove yourself from the shower!

Let me know if your curls are spiraling in perfect double-helixes and if your scalp is soothed!

Even though it’s almost the end of January, this photo reminds me of my New Year’s resolutions. I made three:

1. Subscribe to and read the entire New York Times (only on weekends, because let’s be real);

2. Do some kind of formal exercise at least once a week;

3. Finally get around to joining a CSA.

The lavender in the shop window was purchased at a farmer’s market near the salon, and the person who sold it to me told me it was grown at their farm out in West Chester, PA. The lavendar is so lovely and dried now, but it was first purchased for my Bastille Day window, at the height of summer. There was a whole French theme: we put all the products we sell that contain lavendar in the window, as well as all the ones from France. We put up a Marie Antoinette-style mannequin head, some Being & Nothingness, and Simone de Beauvoir (but no naked pics).

But that was summer, months ago. Back to my resolution.

I equate the CSA with bushels and bushels of kale: stir-fried kale, kale omelettes, pickled kale, peanut butter and jelly kale, kale kale kale. This explains why I’m 41 and still haven’t managed to join a CSA. My gorgeous client Bronwyn poisoned me against the CSA two growing seasons ago, when she would come in for her appointments and complain that, once again, her house was full of kale and collard greens that she couldn’t get rid of.

But I normally shop at Whole Foods, and I can’t help but wonder where all the produce is coming from. I need to start paying more attention to the source of my food. I want to support local growers. Here in the northeast, though, what are they growing in the depth of winter? I’m guessing it’s kale.

Recipes welcome.

Welcome to the home of Juju Salon, Spa, & Organics blog. Look forward to news and information about all things green and exciting events at the Salon & Spa right here!